Last updated on: January 23, 2024, 1:35 p.m.
I met a guy at a wedding last summer who mentioned he was a climber. After some pointless chatter about our favorite rocks and such, he casually mentioned that he broke his back climbing at the gym. Yeah, you read that right. I wasn’t sure if I should ask for details, but he offered them. And what came out was that his partner was using an ATC. Being a risk-averse climber myself, I prefer that all my insurers know how to insure with a Grigri.
Wondering what happened? Well, it’s not too hard to guess. As this guy reached the tallest wall of the gym, he clipped the anchors and let go of the wall to relieve his pump and bask in the glory of his send-off. Unfortunately, he was climbing with an inexperienced friend who had become lazy due to his broken hand and lost control of the rope, resulting in a 40-foot fall.
While this could have been avoided with better techniques, it could also have been made (basically) impossible by using a Grigri. There’s a reason these devices are so popular: they’re the safest way to belay. If you’re considering adding one to your climbing gear list or aren’t sure how they work, you’ve come to the right place.
What is a GRIGRI?
A GRIGRI is a power-assisted braking belay device that has become a must-have in the climbing community. It is designed to improve safety by providing an extra layer of protection when belaying a climber. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, understanding how to properly use a GRIGRI can significantly reduce the risk of accidents and give you greater peace of mind during your crag trips.
The GRIGRI is manufactured by Petzl. Unlike other insurers like ATC, GRIGRI is an intellectual property that cannot be reproduced by other climbing brands. That said, there are other versions that do essentially the same thing.
The GRIGRI is probably the safest way to protect your climber. The second best thing you can do is secure the first bolt on climbs to prevent ground falls before a climber is belaying. If you have both of these pieces of equipment and use proper technique when belaying, you set yourself up for safe and successful sends.
How does a GRIGRI work?
The GRIGRI acts as a dynamic brake, automatically engaging in the event of a fall or sudden force. The cam mechanism inside the GRIGRI pinches the rope, creating friction and preventing it from sliding through the device, ensuring a reliable hook.
One of the advantages of GRIGRI is its ability to catch falls with minimal effort on the part of the insurer. This makes it particularly useful in situations where there may be a significant weight difference between the climber and the belayer. The GRIGRI’s power-assisted braking system can help compensate for a lighter belayer, reducing the climber’s risk of falling due to a lack of braking force.
How to set up a GRIGRI to ensure
Successfully using a GRIGRI starts with configuring it correctly. It’s pretty simple, but it has devastating consequences if done incorrectly. A climber at my gym recently fell over 30 feet to the ground because the GRIGRI was installed upside down – not what you want.
To set up a GRIGRI, identify the climbing side and the brittle side. The climber’s side will have a small picture of a climber – the piece of rope coming out of this end should be the side of the rope your climber is attached to. The other side has a picture of a hand holding a rope – the piece of rope that comes out of this side is for the hand that breaks and should be the side where the rest of the rope is wound and on which your stopping knot is attached.
Be sure to use a locking carabiner to attach the GRIGRI to your belay loop and make sure it is securely locked.
How to belay with a GRIGRI while climbing
Belaying with a GRIGRI is a little tricky, but with a little practice it becomes second nature. As always, start by checking that the rope is installed correctly. Like any other belay device, be sure to keep one hand on the end of the rope that your climber is not on (your backup hand).
Even if GRIGRI are self-locking, they do not replace good installation technique and particular attention. As your climber ascends, you will release slack with your non-braking hand which should be positioned on the climber’s side of the rope.
If your climber falls, move the hand from the climber’s side of the rope to the side where your backup hand is and pull the rope down firmly to make it easier to break. The general technique does not differ much from using an ATC.
Once your climber reaches the top of the route, pull back the lever on the left side of the GRIGRI to lower him. Remember to do this slowly until you are comfortable with the speed at which the lowering mechanism works. Keep in mind that climb angles and the weight of your climber will change speed. It’s always good to start slowly so as not to send your partner into the express elevator. Part of knowing how to lie down is knowing how to bring it down, so make sure you get it down!
GRIGRI versus ATC
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ATCs are the essential tool for pushing back. Although you can rappel using two GRIGRIs simultaneously, it is an advanced technique that can be dangerous if done incorrectly. On the other hand, an ATC is the most common device for abseiling. Some people also say that it is easier to belay from above with a multi-launch ATC. There are also people who think that an ATC is a better belay for trad climbing, but this is up for debate.
Both are great devices, but the GRIGRI is going to provide more peace of mind, especially when climbing with new belayers. But it’s also a good thing to have an ATC on hand…and to know how to use it.
Conclusion: How to pose with a GRIGRI
Ask any (intelligent) climber what the most important part of climbing is and you’re bound to get the same answer: safety. The hill you climb or the experiences the sport can facilitate mean nothing if you get injured. Rock climbing has some inherent dangers, but the sport can actually be very safe if you do it correctly.
When it comes to belay devices, the grigri is very popular, and for good reason. Although ATCs are cheaper, the Grigri is by far the safest means of belaying. This is because the Grigri locks automatically, meaning it does not rely on the tension of the belayer to stop the rope.