Last updated on: May 13, 2024, 10:27 p.m.
I still remember the excitement of walking into that climbing gear store, staring in awe at the colorful array of climbing shoes that adorned the walls. The promise of adventure and new heights lured me into the world of climbing, and my eagerness to get started led me to make a rookie mistake. Ignoring the sage advice of experienced climbers, I chose a pair of climbing shoes as comfortable as a second skin, thinking that was the key to success. It was a mistake, but it taught me a key lesson about how to find the best climbing shoes for beginners.
Those first shoes were like instruments of torture for my feet, forcing them to submit to every movement. They looked more like instruments of medieval torture than tools for scaling rock faces. After a few painful climbs, I was back at REI, returning my shoes and chatting with a seasoned expert.
The truth is, for beginner climbers, comfort is king. When your shoes fit perfectly, you can focus on perfecting your form, perfecting your technique, and discovering the joys of climbing without the constant distraction of foot pain. That said, there are plenty of great beginner options to sort through to find the perfect pair.
Table of contents
How should climbing shoes fit?
Achieving the perfect fit requires finding the right balance. You don’t want your shoes to squeeze your feet like a vice, but you also don’t want them to pull away from your foot mid-climb. If you’re trying to find the right fit for your climbing shoes, these 5 tips can help guide you.
- Size matters, but so does your intention: Start with your usual size, but be open to adjustments. Climbing shoe sizes often differ from everyday shoes. Your climbing shoes should fit your feet perfectly without causing unbearable pressure. If bouldering or demanding climbs are your thing, consider a more aggressive fit for more precision. For longer routes or comfort-focused climbs, a slightly looser fit might be your preference.
- Toe Fit: Your toes are your connection to the rock. Make sure they lie flat or curve gently inside the shoe. They should lightly touch the front without being too crowded. This sensitivity allows you to perceive the texture of the rock and maintain control over it.
- Watch for empty spaces: Vacant spaces in the shoe result in decreased performance. Inspect for any voids or extra space, especially around the heel and arch regions. Gaps can cause instability and reduced accuracy.
- The importance of the heel: A perfect heel fit prevents your foot from moving during climbs. Your heel should be firmly anchored, without any discomfort or lifting.
- Trial and error: Keep in mind that different brands and models offer different fits. Feel free to try several sizes and styles. The fit of climbing shoes is a personal matter, so be patient and persistent in your quest for the perfect fit.
How to find the right size climbing shoes
One thing you’ll notice when shopping for climbing shoes is that many of them use European sizes. This can be confusing because European half sizes come in smaller quantities than their American counterparts. Therefore, European climbing shoe sizes offer more accurate sizing, resulting in a superior fit. On average, European sizes include four additional size options in each range. This distinction proves particularly advantageous for climbers, given the inherent stiffness of climbing shoes, which often results in reduced flexibility.
If you need help finding the right shoe size for your feet, you can use our climbing shoe size calculator.
Overview of the best climbing shoes for beginners
Almost every climbing brand has shoes for beginners and honestly, most of them are pretty good. There are no pros or cons to climbing shoes, as there are pairs that fit your feet well and others that don’t.
This article will give you an overview of some solid pairs to try while you’re looking for the best climbing shoes and understanding which brand best fits your foot. You may need to try on a pair while you determine which pair is best for your feet.
Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Shoes
The Momentum shoe from Black Diamond offers exceptional comfort all day long, whether in the gym or on the rock. Engineered Knit technology in the upper fabric provides the perfect combination of stretch, support and breathability, making every climb a breeze.
What’s even better is the microfiber lining in the front, which minimizes stretching and maximizes comfort. Unique molded rubber, inspired by carabiner forging, sets these shoes apart, providing the perfect balance of weight, consistency and comfort.
The soft, flexible midsole adds sensitivity, making these shoes ideal for moderate routes, bouldering and gym sessions. This is a great entry-level climbing shoe that will take you to the next level, while keeping your feet happy and ready for adventure.
SCARPA Origin Climbing Shoes
These shoes provide the perfect introduction to climbing, with a flat profile and a VisionTM rubber sole that is both sticky and durable.
What sets these shoes apart is the plush leather upper, which adds a touch of luxury and attention to detail rarely seen in shoes designed for newcomers to climbing. Recent updates to this classic bestseller include improved aesthetics, a more comfortable fit at the widest part of the foot and the addition of the PAF heel system. If you are new to climbing and looking for a comfortable and stylish entry. shoe-wise, the SCARPA brand is a great brand to look at.
Black Diamond Zone Unisex Climbing Shoes
These two-strap Velcro shoes combine the award-winning comfort and breathability of Momentum climbing shoes with Shadows’ high-performance last, creating one of the best climbing shoes for beginners.
The Zone’s upper features our Engineered Knit technology, providing stretch where it’s needed, crucial support and exceptional breathability, meaning your feet stay cool even during intense gym sessions. With a lowered shape based on our aggressive shape, the Zone excels at tackling steep rocks or plastic holds.
What sets the Zone apart is its sticky Fuze rubber, precision molded to optimize both consistency and comfort. The shoe’s vamp area features printed rubber for added friction when hooking toes, and the mid-flex midsole provides the perfect balance of sensitivity and power.
Solve your shoes
Finding the right pair of shoes and breaking them in takes time, so spending money on a new pair is often the last thing you want to do. But the good news is that you can give your climbing shoes a second life by resoling them. This process involves replacing the rubber sole when it begins to wear out or develop holes, thereby extending the life of your shoes and improving their performance. It’s especially important to pay attention to the big toe area, as it’s often the one that takes the most abuse. Although resoling is a delicate practice best left to experienced professionals, if you find yourself without an option, you can temporarily repair your shoes with tape to relieve some pressure on your toes and protect the integrity of the shoe as you continue to climb.
Determining when to resole your climbing shoes is an essential part of the process. Look for visible signs of interior tissue exposure, primarily around the big toe area. This is a great time to consider resoling, as waiting until you have gone through the fabric can make the process more difficult or impossible. Some climbers choose to resole even before the rubber has completely worn out to prevent additional damage and extend the overall life of the shoe. This approach can save you money, reduce environmental impact, and allow you to enjoy the comfort and familiarity of your favorite pair of climbing shoes for longer.
Roundup: The Best Climbing Shoes for Beginners
As a climber who has experienced the ups and downs of choosing the right climbing shoes, I cannot stress enough the importance of the comfort and performance of your climbing gear. The journey to finding the best climbing shoes for beginners can be a challenge, but it’s a journey worth taking.
From my first accident with painfully tight shoes to the revolutionary comfort and performance of the shoes I discovered, one thing is clear: your climbing shoes should be your faithful companions in your ascent to new heights. They should empower you, not hinder you, as you conquer the walls of a gym or venture into the great outdoors.