Evan Hau climbed one of the oldest projects at the Echo Canyon Coliseum, a crag on Grotto Mountain north of Canmore, with his send-up of Queen Been Direct. It offers 5.14d/15a.
On social media, Hau said: “I’ve been trying this route on and off since 2015…I revisited going straight in 2020 after doing Sacrifice. [an Adam Ondra 5.15a in Echo Canyon] and I was able to complete all the individual movements, but the harsh conditions made it difficult to get quality time on the course. Finally, this year I tried to focus on sending. I thought I could do it in April this year, it ended up taking until October but I’m glad I did it. There were final day vibes and pressure today as we fly to Spain tomorrow. I think the grade is 9a/+ [5.14d/15a].”
Hau, who has climbed six routes of 5.14d or greater, spent more than 50 sessions working on Queen Bee Direct. On 8a.nu, he said: “I came close several times about a month ago, but I didn’t make it between the mental errors, the deteriorating conditions, the slipping feet. It was all about staying focused and keeping the psychiatrist alive to believe I could still do it. I trained hard for this route all last winter, mostly circuits replicating crucial sections, because I thought I could send in the spring, but during the summer I was content to climb outside.
Hau plans to travel to Spain this winter to screen No Pain No Gain, a 5.15a opened by Dani Fuerte. In 2022 we talked about Anak Verhoeven climbing No Pain No Gain, read about it here. Below is our 2020 interview with Hau after his second ascent of Sacrifice.
Words with Hau
What was the first thing that came to mind when you cut the channels? This is a two part answer as there is a good rest further down the course after the main difficult section, after which the difficulty drops considerably. I got to the rest feeling strong. I let out a few power screams in the final movements leading up to the rest. For the rest, I had a moment of disbelief followed by a moment of “Wow, I got here, I might actually send!”
I tried to calm down to prepare for the top 5.13c part. Normally I feel confident at the top, but it was actually quite wet that day and I normally avoid going to the summit when it’s raining. One jump worried me but I managed. There was also one place where I felt like I might slip due to the humidity and I ended up making a split-second decision to change my sequence, which was nerve-wracking, but it worked. worked. At anchor, I was a little relieved that I hadn’t ruined everything. Of course I was also happy I sent and clipping the chains was amazing.
What training have you focused on during the covid lockdown? My wife Sheena and I followed a three-day cycle of strength, endurance and rest for two months with a week’s break in between. We don’t have a climbing wall, but we used a combination of hanging boards, free weights, furniture, and bodyweight exercises. We did a lot of visualization exercises and I probably went through Sacrifice several hundred times in my head.
Once the lockdown was lifted, how many sessions did it take before sending? I felt a lot stronger on Sacrifice this season compared to last year, so it seems the lockdown training helped. It took me a few days to reacquaint myself with the course and I was able to immediately embark on red dot attempts if conditions permitted. I organized the eleventh session at the Colosseum this year.
What is the crux of sacrifice? The most difficult moves are centered around an empty block near the start. This is a short squeeze point involving intense right heel hooks. However, the real crux is a 17-move power endurance section that comes after the more difficult individual moves on the climbs. Legend has it that Adam Ondra popped three bolts in this section, which are bolts six, seven and eight. I see the appeal of this, but I ended up cutting the middle bolt on all my attempts.
Adam Ondra made the first ascent, how special is it to get the second? When I locked the route, I wasn’t sure if the lowest point was possible and couldn’t even figure out which beta to try. It was very inspiring to see Adam Ondra understand the crucial section. It was a motivating and important moment that encouraged me to try harder myself and gave me a starting point to begin my own journey with ascension.
How does it feel to be the first Canadian to officially become a 5.15 climber? I feel like I ran the gamut of emotions when I originally proposed 5.15a for Honor and Glory back in 2017. This time around, it doesn’t seem much different from the usual joy of finishing a difficult project. I’m really happy to have been able to complete this journey. It’s been an incredible journey going up the climb, wondering if it was possible, finally being able to do all the moves and put it all together.
Are there any other 5.15 projects waiting to be sent to the Rockies? Certainly. I suspect the Queen Bee Direct open draft also at the Coliseum is 5.15 for all contenders. There are a number of unfinished projects around the Bow Valley and it is likely that a few fall into the 5.15 category. There is also enormous development potential in the region.
If there was another 5:15 you would like to repeat, what would it be? Locally, I can’t wait to start working on Fight Club 5.15b. I would love to find a good 5.15a to project while traveling. Stoking the fire in Santa Linya, Spain is another dream of mine.
What is the best hangboard for training finger strength? I really only have two months of experience on a hangboard during the covid-19 lockdown, so I’m not a hangboard connoisseur, but I’m thinking of a hangboard that offers easy (jug), medium and hard hangboards to hang. (less than 20 seconds without weight) allows you to perform a variety of exercises.
What are some tips for young climbers who want to improve their grades? I have always focused on the experience and the journey more than the sending and elevation of a climb. If I choose a long-term project, I’d better enjoy climbing. There will be a lot of ups and downs during the screening, but as long as I try to have fun, I can enjoy each day, regardless of the outcome. Take time to enjoy small chunks of progress.