Toby Roberts climbed the 26 meter Gancho Perfecto 5.15a at Margalef, a sport route first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2008. The Gancho Perfecto has been repeated by Ramón Julián Puigblanque, Adam Ondra, Stefano Ghisolfi and Jorge Diaz-Rullo .
After trying the route two years ago and abandoning the last move, Roberts returned after taking a two-year break from climbing to focus on the Olympics. Gancho Perfecto was first in Roberts’ class. The line shares the same start as Perfecto Mundo 5.15c until a break where Gancho Perfecto heads right and Perfecto Mundo heads left towards its infamous knot.
“Excited to have sent Gancho Perfecto, we are halfway through our trip and the main goal of this trip was to send Gancho, but now that I have done that I took a quick look at Perfecto Mundo, I went up and checked out the moves, and it really, really excited me,” Roberts said.
“I wasn’t sure how I would feel because I think when you check out a route you never know how you will feel, but now that I’ve tried the moves it makes me more excited than before . It’s really hard, I’ll say that, it’s really hard… but I’m so excited to stay stuck in and give it everything I’ve got.