Last updated on: May 13, 2024, 10:24 p.m.
Welcome to where rock meets rodeo. As you drive through the ranches of Wyoming and drop off in the town of Ten Sleep, you’ll definitely feel like you’re back in the Old West. The horse arenas, saloons, and cowboy boots make this place feel like it’s frozen in time. But just on the other side of town the terrain narrows, the road rises and the landscape draws you into a canyon where you can start to see small shapes coming up the wall. This is what Ten Sleep looks like climbing for the first time.
This canyon in the middle of Wyoming is probably one of my favorite places I’ve climbed. It has all the ingredients that make a great climbing destination: tons of rocks, a great campsite where you can meet other climbers, and a town that offers enough entertainment to keep your days interesting.
As the 560-page guide suggests, this place is HUGE. My goal for this preview is to give you a quick beta to start planning your Ten Sleep climbing trip. From where to climb to where to stay and where to eat, this should give you a starting point for what to do while you’re there. But buy a guidebook, look around, and be open to surprise while you’re at it. You will never know what speaks to you.
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Where is Ten Sleep Wyoming?
The short answer is nowhere. Ten Sleep is in the middle of nowhere. It’s not close to major airports – your best bet is Billings, Montana, about 3.5 hours away, but even that airport is small and you’ll probably have to change planes in Denver.
If you can do this, driving will be your best bet. Ten Sleep is located off Highway 16 and is not a large town in itself. There are no major grocery stores there, so your best option is to head to the town of Worland, which is about 25 minutes west.
Ten Sleep’s small-town vibe is part of what gives it its charm, but it makes it difficult to get into. If you are arriving by plane and renting a car, it is best to plan a longer vacation, as you will lose a day traveling one way or the other.
The Best Places to Climb in Ten Sleep Wyoming
The town itself is located outside the canyon. If you head east on Highway 16 for about 10 minutes, you reach the base of the canyon and will start to find walls. The Ten Sleep area is huge, so the travel time to a particular rock can really vary.
Most of the stuff here is sport climbing, although some bouldering exists if you know where to look. There are thousands of routes here, so the options are endless. You should consider getting a guidebook to help you plan where you want to go based on the style you like to climb.
If you’re looking for a place to start, here are some of my favorite rocks.
Valhalla Zone
This is a large expanse of cliff that encompasses some very large walls like the Vietnam Wall, Drugs and Sex and Superratic Pillar.
Vietnam Wall is a great intermediate area with some great climbs in the 11s. Pussy Control (you’ll find it as written on the Mountain Project) is a great, pocket-sized 11a that’s a great entry into the grade. Even if the 11s are a breeze for you, it’s a very fun, sustained and pompous climb.
Next door is Bikini Girls with Machine Guns (11b), which is just as fun as it sounds. Cross a crucial point around the 3rd bolt to a supported upper half on the route that only stops when you hit the anchors. Hanoi Hilton is another excellent hotel on this wall, clocking in at 11am.
The Drugs and Sex wall is full of highly rated 12a climbs like Kama Sutra and Reverse Cowgirl (can you guess where the wall got its name?). There are a few 5.10s on this wall, but it tends to be more advanced.
The nice thing about the Valhalla area is that the cliff strip is connected by a path, making it easy for you to walk from wall to wall to climb.
Circus and wall of crows
This is another great place to climb. There are more moderates with some high quality 10cs worth climbing. Circus in the Wind is a really fun 11 that requires some big moves, offers some big rests, and requires some dedication to get the final move right. If you’re looking for something a little more difficult, Circus in my pants is a 12d that got the grade and will make you work for the submission.
Around the corner is the Raven Wall which doesn’t offer as many epic climbs. But what it does offer are 5 routes all 5.10b or less, making it a solid choice for groups looking for some variety.
Other Great Ten Sleep Climbing Areas
Again, this is HUGE and it would be impossible to cover all the routes he has to run. But here are a few more rocks to check out while you’re looking for where you want to climb:
Hound Dog Crag • Ideal for a group that needs runs ranging from 5.8 to 5.12
Cattle Ranch • Huge area with lots of rocks. Endless 4-star itineraries from 5.11 to 5.12-
Lake Point • Highest area of the canyon. Tons of rocks in a beautiful area
Best time of year to climb Ten Sleep
Ten Sleep’s climbing season follows that of most Western crags: your best options are spring and fall. The shoulder seasons will give you the best chance of mild weather and staying dry.
| Month | High | Weak | Rain |
| March | 52 | 28 | 4 |
| April | 60 | 35 | 6 |
| Can | 70 | 44 | 7 |
| June | 81 | 52 | 5 |
| July | 89 | 59 | 3 |
| August | 87 | 57 | 2 |
| September | 77 | 47 | 4 |
| October | 63 | 36 | 5 |
Once you hit the middle of summer, it starts to get really hot, making climbing a game of chasing shade. I went there at the end of June/beginning of July and still had a great time, but the heat was quite stifling. Be sure to start early in the morning, plan a shady crag in the afternoon, and do the majority of your climbing before the heat really gets going.
Where to Stay While Climbing at Ten Sleep
Where you decide to rest your head is a key part of a climbing trip. It’s the place where you come to recharge your batteries, but also where you can meet potential partners, especially when you’re riding solo. Part of the magic of climbing in Ten Sleep is that it succeeds in cultivating community and attracting climbers from all over the world looking for partners.
Most popular – The Rock Ranch
If you are a solo climber, this is the perfect place to say it. The Rock Ranch is nestled at the base of the canyon and is a short drive to the nearest rock. It’s the perfect place to gather and camp (think Miguels in the Red River Gorge). With 70 campsites, cabins to rent and parking spaces for your car, it is ready to accommodate you however you want. Campsites only cost $8 per month.
They also have a social area with free wifi, a public bath, a store and refrigerators to store food. A river runs through the property, so you can also relax to beat the heat. If you can swing it and get a reservation, this is the place to be. There is a real social atmosphere and a chance to meet other climbers.
Budget Option – Free Camping at Ten Sleep Climbing Area
If you don’t feel like spending $8 a night at Rock Ranch (or if everything is sold out, which happens, believe me), there is free camping around Ten Sleep.
One of your best options is to camp near Crazy Women Canyon Road. This area is full of free dispersed camping and access is easy. The only exception is in winter: when there is snow, this road is incredibly dangerous and it is very difficult to keep control of your car, even if you have 4-wheel drive and snow tires.
This option is located in the heart of the climbing area. Be careful, it’s over 9,000 feet so it gets cold at night, even in summer. The road can be rough, so make sure you have 4-wheel drive. If you only have 2 wheels, you may be able to find somewhere to leave sooner.
Comfort Option – Hotels & AirBnbs near the Ten Sleep climbing area
If you’re arriving by plane, you may not want to bring your tent, stove, and everything else you need for camping. Luckily, there are tons of hotels and AirBnbs in the area where you can find accommodation for a pretty reasonable price, especially if you’re a large group.
When it comes to hotels, the Carter Inn and the Log Cabin Hotel are both good bets. They are located in town and a short drive from the rock.