Last updated on: May 13, 2024, 10:29 p.m.
If you, like me, struggle with stinky shoe syndrome, you already know the importance of keeping your climbing shoes clean. But let’s take a step back (pun intended) and talk about something just as crucial: finding the perfect fit for your climbing shoes. We dig into the details of how climbing shoes should fit, so you can conquer those routes with confidence and style. Say goodbye to discomfort and hello to your new favorite climbing buddies!
Table of contents
How should climbing shoes fit?
Climbing shoes should fit snugly, with little or no room for movement, while avoiding bending at the toes.. Check that the heel fits properly, that it is wide enough at the ball of your foot, and that your toes touch the tip without arching upwards. A good fit helps you get more power with every movement, prevents your foot from slipping, and gives you a comfortable feeling while climbing.
Avoid discomfort and optimize performance. Make sure the heels fit snugly, the toes are flat or slightly curved, and there is no bunching of the toe joints. Get the perfect fit for a better climbing experience
Why the right fit is important
Climbing shoes are like your faithful companions in the vertical world. A good fit isn’t just about comfort: it directly affects your performance and safety on the rock. Poorly fitting shoes can lead to unexpected slips, discomfort and even injury. So, let’s make sure your climbing shoes are your ultimate allies, not your enemies.
One of the tricky factors in finding the right shoes is knowing your size. Most climbing shoes are sold in European, not American, sizes. If you’re not sure what size you are, you can use our climbing shoe size calculator to automatically translate it for you.
As you try on shoes, you will find that certain brands suit you differently. La Sportiva tends to be narrow while Scarpa and Evolv have a reputation for accommodating wider feet.
The Goldilocks Zone: How Tight Should Climbing Shoes Be?
Finding the right fit is all about balance. You don’t want shoes that feel like they’re suffocating your feet, but you also don’t want them to slide around like they have a mind of their own. Here’s your step-by-step guide to finding the right Goldilocks solution for your climbing shoes:
- Size matters, but so does your goal: Start with your usual size, but be prepared to make adjustments. Climbing shoe sizes often differ from everyday shoes. Your climbing shoes should fit well, but not too tight. If you like bouldering or aggressive climbing, you might opt for a more aggressive fit for more precision. For longer routes or comfort-focused climbs, a slightly more relaxed fit might be your choice.
- Toe love and sensitivity: Your toes are your connection to the rock. Make sure they are flat or slightly curved inside the shoe. They should lightly touch the front, without being too creased. This sensitivity allows you to feel the rock and stay in control.
- Pay attention to dead space: Dead space inside the shoe equals reduced performance. Check for any gaps or extra room, especially in the heel and arch area. Dead space can cause instability and decreased accuracy.
- The power of the heel: A snug heel prevents your foot from moving while climbing. Your heel should be held securely in place, without any discomfort or lifting.
- Trial and error: Remember that different brands and models have different fits. Feel free to try several sizes and styles. Climbing shoe fit is personal, so be patient and persistent.
The “breaking-in” myth: how to tell if my climbing shoes are too small
Let’s debunk a common misconception: climbing shoes do not necessarily require a painful break-in period. Modern shoes are designed to fit comfortably right out of the box. Although they may stretch a little with use, your toes shouldn’t feel like they’re on the support. If a shoe hurts right off the bat, it’s probably not the right size.
That said, shoes get a little more comfortable over time and are often never comfortable enough to want to spend all day in them. After a few sessions, the number above your toes and on the sides of the shoe will adapt to your foot, for a more natural fit. But if you climb in moderate or aggressive style shoes, you probably want to wear these shoes only while climbing. the discomfort of a snug fit is real, and it’s not something most climbers want to endure post-climb.
How to Care for Climbing Shoes
Once you’ve put all the effort into finding the right pair of shoes, you want to make them last as long as possible. Occasionally cleaning your climbing shoes is a good way to remove dirt from the fabric that can cause long-term damage.
If you start to wear out the rubber, you can also resole your climbing shoes, essentially giving them a second life. It’s a great way to save a little money and avoid the hassle of buying a new, well-fitting pair of shoes.
Conclude:
Climbing shoes are more than just equipment: they are an extension of your climbing prowess. A good fit can elevate your climbing experience to new heights (literally). So when you’re looking for the perfect pair, remember these key points: comfort without suffocation, sensitivity without effort, and a secure heel without discomfort.
Now that you know how to put on climbing shoes, conquer those rocks with confidence. Happy climbing, and may your shoes fit like a glove (or a perfectly fitted climbing shoe, in this case)!