When I returned from Scotland this spring, I was initially devastated and the thought of running anywhere wasn’t even a consideration. After a few weeks of beers, PlayStation (yes) and general inactivity I started to crave some fast-paced mountain exercise and, with skiing being quite limited with the lack of snow this winter, I quickly turned my attention to trail running .
I’ve had sort of a love/hate relationship with running over the years. I love the idea. Move quickly through the mountains jumping from boulder to boulder, sliding down scree slopes and sprinting on picture-perfect alpine trails. Maybe it would be like that if I was more like Killian Jornet, but few of us are either. The reality is leg pain, a lot of walking uphill (but shh, don’t tell anyone you’re walking, otherwise you can’t pretend to be a runner, and walking isn’t cool anyway) and some twisted ankles. However, I started again, trying to warm up slowly. After a few shorter runs and staying aware of the inevitable tight and sore lower leg stabilizer muscles that went unused after a winter in stiff boots, I started doing longer runs. After a few weeks of long, slow, steady climbs and descents (2 hours or more) on the trails behind my house, I was ready for some adventures.
Here’s my roundup of my five favorite long adventure runs from this summer so far, in no particular order. Discalibrate; Some of these “races” are certainly more like skyrunning or even skywalking. Maybe if you’re super fit you can run some routes(?), maybe not, but either way, I’ve always ventured on these runs in good weather with trail shoes, shorts, a t-shirt, a windproof top, a phone, 750 ml of water, a neck warmer and some food, all stored in a Salomon running vest and of course in my Suunto Spartan Ultra to record the tracks . This is not to say that some people will feel better with a rope and climbing gear on some trips!
1. The Crête d’Autannes
STRAVA LINK HERE
Maybe it’s known as something else, but it’s been on my bucket list for a while since my friends Joel and Pete did it a few years ago. This route starts from the top of the Tour chairlift where you head towards the Col de Balme then climb onto the ridge of the skyline towards the Aiguille du Tour. You cross three peaks along the way; The Grandes Otanes, the Pointe des Berrons and the Pointe des Grands then go back down from the Col des Grands towards the Refuge Albert premier where you can stop to have a little sparkling sugar if you need it before giving it the big legs again towards the chair lift. A pretty nice circuit, I tell you, but it’s not without its difficulties. It is quite exposed and requires some climbing skills. Nothing too difficult but you will definitely use your hands. It also covers some loose rock along the way. If I’m honest, it’s definitely closer to scrambling than running, but if you’re looking for a similar adventure, but without the exposure, then a run up to Col des Grands and back might be just what you’re looking for .
I don’t want to tell you too much, but if you’re fit, able to climb easily, have good mountain sense, and are up for adventure, this might be on your bucket list. What I will say is that I went down a steep, loose ravine just after Pointe Des Grands and it was not a good idea… Continue further to the Col and descend there.
2. Mont-Joly
STRAVA LINK HERE
A few weeks ago, Irene and I were dog-sitting, but wanted to go for a big hike/run. It was nice and warm and we wanted to go somewhere outside the valley but not too far. I always wanted to go to the summit of Mont Joly in Megève and I figured there was no better way to get a long duration, Zone 1 (easy pace). We walked more or less the whole way (see, I made you believe it was running) and ran the same way. We started from Le Baptieu in Les Contamines and followed the signs to Mont Joly from there. It was definitely a bit strenuous due to the heat, but it was quite impressive to cross the huge alpine meadows high up and then cross the ridge to the summit. The summit itself is a bit run down with a huge gas station up there, but it offers great views of the Mont Blanc massif and is worth a trip. It’s also one of the only real trails among the five!
3. From the Balconies of the Mer de Glace to the Couvercle Refuge
STRAVA LINK HERE
This particular trip is quite unique as you have to spend quite a bit of time on the Mer de Glace trotting past climbers in their heavy gear while you slip and slide in your running shoes and shorts. Newer or sturdier running shoes are recommended for this one, as Irene discovered on the ice! This is an out and back type race that further pushes the boundaries of “running” as at least a third of the day is spent climbing up and down ladders. All that said, you should only venture out on this race if you are able to do exposed ladders, know how to navigate your way around a dry glacier, and understand that you are going deep into mountains with a very light style. Expect some funny looks at the glacier!! If running or trying to run seems almost stupid or isn’t your thing, I highly recommend taking a 20m rope and harness, using the fixed carabiners to protect yourself on the ladders, and spending a night at the Lid. This has to be one of my favorite mountain huts. Overall it was a great day and I will definitely do it again in future summers. Maybe I’ll even offer this as a guided day in the future! Here’s what you do…
Start from Montenvers (or add the Via Corda to the start if you want to add a little more scrambling to your already very long day). From there, descend onto the glacier via the ladders, “run” on the glacier (keep your eyes open for the Crystals and Crevasses!), climb the new (somewhat) ladders located between the Charpoua and Couvercle refuges. From here the trail starts off okay, but you will have already covered most of the distance one way at this point. The path through has to be one of the most breathtaking alpine trails and takes you all the way to the Refuge du Couvercle where you can stop for a coffee and even a slice of cake! Take a short walk to the rocky massif which overlooks the old refuge and admire the view of the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. Then turn around and go back the way you came. Remember, ladders are easier to climb down if you face outward…. Have fun!
This short video should give you a little insight into the day!
4. The Junction
STRAVA LINK HERE
This is the only other true trail race among the five. If you like elevation changes like me then this is the one for you because there is 1800m of elevation gain from Les Bossons. I think this is one of my favorite uphill and downhill runs in Chamonix and is worth anyone undertaking if you have some fitness. The Strava times are ridiculous but even if you planned to take all day to get there and back, I’m sure you wouldn’t be disappointed. I’ve been there four times this summer now so that shows how good it is! You can take the Bossons double chairlift (included in the Chamonix package) to avoid a good part of the climb and the lower part is not the most interesting part anyway. They also allow you to take dogs there if you have a hiking buddy.
It’s clearly signposted from the top of the chairlift and you can’t really go wrong. However, there is a path that goes down from the Tacconaz side about 2/3 of the way up. It is indicated that it is closed and for good reason. Not recommended. There are a few steep sections where you may need to use your hands for balance, but that adds to the journey for me. The lower part of the forest can be a bit dull as there isn’t much to see, but as you climb you start to get amazing glimpses of the glaciers on either side. It takes its name from the meeting point of the Bossons and Tacconaz glaciers and at the highest point you are surrounded by glaciers on three sides, which is quite unique.
Near the top you will pass a large rock with a sign on it. This is where Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard slept during their first ascent of Mont Blanc on August 7, 1786. At the top of the Jonction, you will have a breathtaking view of the Chamonix valley, west face of the Aiguille du Noon. and the Route du Grand Mulet on Mont Blanc as well as the impressive north faces of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit.
If you are in Chamonix for a week, I highly recommend this outing.
5. Mont Buet via the North Ridge
STRAVA LINK HERE (but not the right way on the ridge)
The trails around Beut are some of the best in the region and offer the intrepid runner a wealth of good adventure options for long days. Having climbed Mont Buet several times in winter and once in summer by the normal route of the Bérard valley, I wanted to try something else. Irene had suggested the North Ridge and I had heard it was good, so we were keen to take a look. I had also only been to the Tre les Eaux valley once in autumn and was looking forward to seeing it without its winter coat.
From Buet station you can either go up the Bérard valley then cross the river on the first bridge after the refreshment bar (about 1 km of climbing) then do a dog leg to take the path which goes up to the Tre les Eaux valley. If you were smart, you would go up from Le Couteray following the signs from there.
The hike/run to Tre les Eaux is quite nice with a short rock walk with the use of a few chains. Oddly enough the river was flowing strong at the bottom, but when we got to the flat top there was no water in sight. We continued directly rather than going up to Cheval Blanc which I would recommend along the way. We zigzagged and then attacked the steep grassy and rocky slopes of the valley floor. It was a real pain and if it was wet it would have been very sketchy. Once on the north ridge, a few cables help you climb towards the summit of Mont Buet and if there had been less clouds, I’m sure the view would have been magnificent. We stop for a few moments at the summit then begin the long descent into the Bérard valley. Overall, it’s a really big day and a really fun adventure to have with nothing on your back. Go for it!
That’s all! Happy Running everyone and don’t hesitate to share this with your runner friend who is going to Chamonix for the UTMB! This might give them some inspiration for a few training runs!