Albania is a promising travel destination for those who like to get off the beaten track and explore rugged landscapes. It’s an absolute haven of towering mountains, rushing waterfalls and turquoise blue lakes. If you love the outdoors, hiking and being immersed in nature, northern Albania is the place for you. With tourism still developing, especially in the north of the country, traveling requires a little extra effort, but you are greatly rewarded with incredible landscapes, delicious food and welcoming locals.
Practical aspects
Getting there: Albania’s main airport is Tirana and there are usually one or two fairly affordable flights per day from the UK. From there you can rent a car if you want to take a road trip.
When to visit: I recommend visiting during the summer season from mid-June to late September, so all trails will be open. There are fewer crowds and lower temperatures if you avoid July and August.
How long to stay: I would recommend spending around 7 days exploring northern Albania. Having a little wiggle room saves time traveling between each region, as the roads can be a bit long and windy.
Where to stay: Guesthouses are the most common form of accommodation in northern Albania and provide an authentic way to not only experience the country but also connect with the local community.
Price: Albania is a fairly affordable country, with prices for accommodation and food generally lower than those in other neighboring countries. I recommend always carrying cash, as many places do not accept cards on the mountain.
Travel tip: Don’t drink the mountain water, no matter what the locals tell you. Myself and a few friends drank it and ended up feeling bad, so I recommend opting for bottled or purified water if you can.
What to see and do
Theth National Park
Theth is a small mountain village nestled in the heart of the Albanian Alps. It’s the perfect place to explore the surrounding peaks and valleys, and it’s still relatively underdeveloped when it comes to tourism: the main road is unpaved and there are no large hotels yet. It’s like a hidden gem!
There are many small guesthouses you can stay in that serve fresh and delicious local cuisine, and you can take on a multitude of hiking trails nearby. My main recommendations are:
- The Blue Eyes Hike
- Hike to Theth Waterfall
- Theth in Denellit, abandoned villa
- And of course, the famous Theth to Valbona hike.
Where to stay: Marashi Guesthouse
The hike from Theth to Valbona
This is perhaps the most famous hike and activity in all of northern Albania and for good reason, it is absolutely magnificent! The trail is about 15km long and still has over 1,000m of elevation gain, but it’s definitely worth it as the scenery is breathtaking. There are even a few small mountain huts serving basic food and drinks along the trail, which was a nice bonus that I wasn’t expecting!
Arranging the logistics of this hike can be difficult since it is a point-to-point route, but there are organized tours and local shuttles to help you get there.
Valbona National Park
Once you’ve finished hiking from Theth to Valbona, be sure to take a day to relax and enjoy the beauty of Valbona National Park. It’s a little more built up than Theth, with paved roads and some slightly larger hotels, but it still feels very untouched. There are a handful of hiking trails you can explore, but the main one I would recommend is Maja Rosit/Rosni Peak, which is challenging but absolutely beautiful.
Where to stay: Rilindja Valbone or Kukaj Valbone
Komani Lake
Lake Komani was perhaps my personal highlight of our time in Albania. I couldn’t believe that the landscapes I saw existed in Europe – lush green mountains dropping dramatically into brilliant blue waters; It was completely surreal! Most people simply take a day trip to Lake Komani, take a short boat ride on its waters, and continue their journey, but I encourage you to take more time here.
We spent one night at Neomalsore Agrotourism and could easily have added a second. It was a leisurely 2 hour boat ride to get there, and once we arrived it was like entering a rural paradise. Nestled by the lake with stunning views, we were hosted at a local farm. The facilities were basic, but the setting was idyllic. There were goats, chickens, dogs and kittens. We served home-cooked meals on a mountain-view patio and were able to take a dip in the refreshing water of a private dock and beach. It was the perfect place to explore the lake, with hikes nearby (like the one to the abandoned village of Molla where the owners’ parents lived) and quick access to the famous Shala River.
Where to stay: Agritourism in Neomalsore
Shala River
Quickly becoming famous on social media, the Shala River is totally worth the hype. It is an absolutely stunning secluded beach, nestled deep in the mountains, in the Komani Lake area. The setting is magical and the water is crystal clear. It’s the perfect place to spend a day kayaking, sunbathing or swimming.
Most visitors will take a day trip to the beach and I have to admit that between 11am and 4pm it gets a bit hectic! Many local tourist boats arrive and it can get a little crowded. However, if you are staying at a nearby guesthouse, you can plan your visit before or after these hours to enjoy the beautiful peace and tranquility of the valley.
Albania is a beautiful, raw country with phenomenal landscapes and some of the most welcoming people I have had the pleasure of meeting. It takes a bit of work to explore this less-traveled destination, but don’t let that deter you from your visit. I have a feeling that in a few years it will be a lot busier, so add it to your bucket list now before anyone learns how beautiful it is!
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Travel safely,
Zanna x