I came to Biarritz with a commitment to surf every day, rain or shine, to map out my process with 3 videos a day, and to improve incredibly as the month went on. I thought I’d do a little motivational video, meaning you can do it. Hahahahaha
The dream and the reality
I think I can honestly say I’m a worse surfer than when I first came out. It’s hilarious to hold your stomach. I have surfed one foot waves and fallen several times, entered the sea with 9 foot waves and jumped out very fast and spent a lot of time on larger waves. small enough to crush them. I wonder if the term “surfing” is relevant. inappropriate for what I do with a surfboard in the ocean. My kids, both of whom have been riding surfboards since they were nervous, find my abilities amazing. They don’t know how I can spend so much time doing something I’m so bad at.
Be humble
The number one lesson the waves have taught me is humility. I went out, bought “Mimi la Planche” and imagined how much better I would be when I left. I go out, in a swimsuit, I look the part for a bit, then I dive in. I figured that over the summer I would unlearn my special wave-catching technique – I collapse on my stomach on the board when the wave comes, using the slap of my body on the board to give me momentum, then I cry on the board like a walrus. . Turns out I’m still pretty attached to this technique. I thought I would manage a pop up on a mini wave. It got better, but there was a lot of bruising, the right shin tells the story. My sister Jo reminded me of humility and waves during the holidays, and she was absolutely right. Every day I go out feeling like an impostor with my cute board, ready to crash and burn. This is good humility. In yoga, this same humility is very valuable. Letting go of the image of fabulous leggings, super mat, and flexy, flashing legs is the first step toward true humility by accepting your physical body and movements as they are. There is a joy in yoga and surfing that defies what a spectator can see.
Know your joy zone
Know how danger and safety allow you to thrive. Everyone is different. When my daughter surfs, she wants an adrenaline rush. I do it for social time – so where and how we surf is completely different. My daughter and a surf instructor wonder why I don’t go out further. It’s simple, I surf for pleasure, and that means I don’t need much. It’s the same with yoga, you don’t have to keep doing more complex and impressive poses – you can just enjoy it. Yes, that’s right, you can just find what suits you and enjoy it to the fullest.
Humans are dangerous, especially those who are unaware
The waves can crush you, that’s for sure. You have to know what’s going on with the waves, as many of my naive mistakes have proven. More so you have to be careful what other people are doing, in the water they are the most dangerous thing. When others hit me, it was never out of malice, just out of a lack of conscience. A beginner dropped her board which hit me in the neck and gave me nerve pain. It was scary and the bay watch saved the doors and her instructor helped her. Amazingly, within 2 hours I was remarkably right, like rain. It was a real lesson in observing others. So in life, pay attention to others, not to those you think are “bad”, but to those who go around without noticing. There are almost no “bad people” in the world, just generally people who struggle and live the best they can. In yoga, monitor others and their expectations or needs of you. Your yoga teacher may want you to enhance their classes or expand your movements, your fellow yogi may want you to agree that Savasana went too long that night. Stay in your truth, your body and just watch what is happening around you. You can free up all the space you need to be where you are.
All naked, including non-attachment
The whole body story gave me ample room for non-attachment and humility. The beach is full of bright young people and amazing surfers. I’ve never been a fan of showing my butt in public, it’s strange; ), and now I’m doing what I call the surf walk of shame. It’s about leaving the house in your swimsuit and sneakers, walking around the pretty crazy town, full of slightly fancy people, in clothes. And then it gets better. To get to the waves, I walk past the casino, the beautiful cream-yellow casino on the epic waterfront, outside, cute French cafes, filled with holidaymakers surveying the sea views from their very expensive verandas. And oops, here comes Susannah, hair a little tangled and a more-than-middle-aged butt inevitably peeking out of her swimsuit. A surf photographer took a lovely photo of me, which once again tested my ability to bare it all – thanks Fish and Shots (amazing surf photos!). I take this as a practice of non-attachment. Keep walking, yes, I’m wavering. Yes, I’m ruining their glamorous view, keep walking. They have a fancy breakfast and I walk by half naked, keep walking. Do you want to be ashamed? Don’t do that, girl. Take your walk. Own it. Let go. None of this matters. In yoga our bodies are exposed, the teacher will look at your body, and often we are not used to this feeling, it can be very difficult to get noticed by someone. As a yoga teacher, you have to let people look at your body to learn, another layer. 
So next time, you’re not sure how to turn, turn, or react. Return to the ocean waves. Return to your body and exhale. Truly be present, truly listen, truly honor the present moment and all that you are in it…and “let it be”!